A diamond will always and forever be a girl’s best friend.
Classic and timeless, diamonds have a constant presence in history. They first started out as trade items between India and China, which then became medical aids and talismans in the Dark Ages.
As time passed, diamonds became a symbol of commitment: betrothal rings were given by the Romans, which then became engagement rings that signified the promise of forever. To this day, diamonds are a popular choice for wedding rings, but they too can be used as everyday accessories.
While it is tempting to just pick any stone because it is “sparkly”, there is actually a lot of thought that goes in finding the right stone. Here’s a quick guide to get you started.
Choosing the Shape
Being very visual in nature, the first thing anyone would look for in a diamond is its shape. Here are the common diamond shapes to choose from:
- Round: often a popular choice, as they are very sparkly (especially round brilliant cuts) compared to other shapes. Round brilliants are also very versatile. Small ones can be used as accent stones, while larger ones can be center stones for a ring, pendant or even stud earrings.
- Princess: angular and contemporary, the princess cut is a square-shaped diamond used in classic settings but can be featured in modern, geometric designs too. It is important to ensure that the corners are protected with the setting.
- Cushion: a modified square-shape with rounded corners, the cushion cut is an improved version of the old mine cut. It’s often used in vintage pieces because of its chunky, pillow-like shape, and can often be found in antique jewelry.
- Radiant: a rectangular, cut-cornered diamond that is very sparkly and lively compared to the princess and cushion cut. This multi-faceted gem is often flanked with small round or square diamonds.
- Asscher and Emerald: these step-cut diamonds are sleek and elegant in appearance, making them perfect for minimalist jewelry. They may not be as sparkly, but they are more transparent— in order to showcase its clarity.
- Marquise and Pear: a distinct shape that can make fingers look slender when worn as a ring. The pear comes in a teardrop shape, while the marquise features two pointed ends. These stones appear larger, especially when you look down at them.
- Oval: an elongated shape that also makes your fingers look long when worn as a ring. Ovals can be used as an alternative to round diamonds, especially as center stones or pendants.
- Heart: a preferred choice for romantics, the heart shape can be a way of expressing love more explicitly. It’s often used as pendants, earrings or center stones for rings, and can be both modern and vintage, depending on the design.
The 4 C’s
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) simplifies the criteria of a diamond’s quality into the 4Cs: Clarity, Color, Cut, and Carat. In choosing a diamond, it is highly recommended to get one with a certificate from a reputable Gemological laboratory or a Gemologist to guarantee the quality and authenticity of the stone.
Cut
The cut of a diamond plays an important role in how brightly the diamond sparkles. It refers to the symmetry and proportion of the stone, taking into consideration its shape.
When assessing the cut of a diamond, the workmanship is important, as a poorly cut diamond can look dull and lifeless. Round diamonds are easy to assess because it comes with a clear set of guidelines. But it can be more subjective for fancy shapes, since it depends on your preference.
The overall grade of the stone, which is usually written on the stone’s certificate, is more important. It follows an Excellent (EX) to Poor (P) grading system, so it is important to aim for a triple Excellent rank when choosing a diamond.
Clarity
This refers to how “clean” your diamond is. Clarity is assessed based on the presence of “inclusions”—crystals, cloudiness, chips and other characteristics in a diamond. The ranking starts off with FL (Flawless) being the highest and rarest grade, which goes from IF (Internally Flawless), all the way down to I (Included). Included diamonds often come with eye-visible marks that affect the diamond’s durability.
The most important factor to consider when choosing the clarity grade of the stone would be whether these inclusions affect the appearance of the stone, or if it will affect the durability of the stone. FL is the ideal clarity grade to look out for.
Color
Surprisingly, diamonds are not all colorless! A lot of them are actually yellowish and can even have a slight brown or gray tinge to it. Some diamonds can even have Fancy Colors— brighter, more saturated colors, like yellow, brown, and even pink!
Colorless diamonds are ranked based on their lack of color. It follows the alphabet, starting at D being the highest ranking down to Z. The more colorless the diamond is, the higher the price.
On the other hand, the criteria for colored diamonds—Fancy Colors— goes the opposite way. The stronger the color, the higher the price. The rank starts from Fancy Light, all the way to Fancy Vivid and Fancy Deep.
When choosing a diamond based on color, first consider if you plan to get a colorless diamond, or a colored one. For the former, D to F colors are more coveted, with the occasional G to I color. But consider how much you’re willing to invest, of course. As for Fancy Color diamonds, it will depend on your preference and budget as well.
Carat
Carat (ct) refers to the weight of the diamond. And while bigger isn’t always better, the 3C’s play an important role in a diamond’s value. For example, a VVS (Very, very Slightly Included) stone would be more expensive than an SI (Slightly Included) stone of the same Carat weight.
Aside from the 4C’s, there is one more C to consider— the Customer, or in other words, you! There are many diamonds out there, and while it is very difficult (and expensive!) to find a perfect stone that fits the 4C’s well, your preference and the sentimental value that the diamond brings will ultimately be what draws you to it.
